Day 2 - Red Fort and Central Delhi

Delhi Metro Rocks! SS became an instant fan, the moment he saw the spanking stations and the trains. It is comparable to any world-class metro. There's a near-airport-like security at each station, with bags being screened an all. In some stations, people actually stand in line to board the train - at least until the train arrives. Our eyes lit up the moment we saw the metro map and spotted the station at the Qutb Minar. It was only later we realized that most of the lines in the map were under construction. We took a three day pass to travel as many times as we want.

As soon as you enter through the Lahore Gate at Red Fort, the first sight that greets you is a machine gun pointed at your chest. "What if that CSF soldier sneezes and accidentally fires that gun?" asked SS. The thought is scary - not that it would happen, but if it did, it would just be dismissed as a small price for our "security". The only ones to lose would be the near and dear ones of the victims. Security however, does not protect you from the stray dogs that wander around the Gate. Today, a large one took a liking to my camera bag. I had a real tough time driving it away.

The decision to start early morning at the Red Fort was both good and bad. There were none of those Tamil Champus in their weird costumes and poses obstructing our photos. We had the place to ourselves, to click as many photographs as we wanted. However, reaching early meant that there were no shops open inside the Fort - even the restaurant would open only at 11:00 AM. We had to do with biscuits for breakfast!

The handicrafts museum was a disappointment. After a lengthy post-lunch walk from Pragati Maidan metro station, the exhibits were just a few. A lot of impetus has been given for converting the place into a mini-market, where artists from various states produce and sell their wares. Jantar Mantar was no different. It pales in comparison to its illustrious cousin in Jaipur. There were only four main structures, not so well maintained. The most impressive of the four was the Misra Yantra, more famous for being the symbol of the 1982 Asian Games. There were some explanations given as to what it does, using words such as Meridian and Declination, all of made no sense to me. There was a moderate crowd (with usual mix of champus), who were more interested posing for photos on top of the various structures than on their functioning. The gardens around the place were full of couples busy fondling each other in a public show of affection. After all, it was Valentine's Day.

The situation was no different at Purana Quila. Manoj wanted me to click the photo of him and his girlfriend. He didn't have a camera of his own. I obliged happily, and have promised to send him the photo once i reach Bangalore. It was however, already evening when we stepped into Purana Quila. The only thing that interested us was the Sher Mandal - believed to the library from which Humayun fell to his death.

After the disappointment at Karim's yesterday, we were satisfied with two sumptuous meals on Connaught Place - lunch at Kwality's on Sansad Marg, and dinner at Punji Balluch, opposite to Palika Bazaar. Kwality's had a toned-down ambience, with sober interiors - like any fine-dining restaurant you would come across. Balluch was more colorful, and also decked up for Valentine's Day (with nobody threatening to marry off people over here). Both places were expensive, but the food was worth it. Perhaps we were aided by our hunger - developed through the long walks we had had during the day.

Pic of the day:

Day 1 - Old Delhi - Juma Masjid and Red Fort

A narrow stair leads up amidst the shops selling car parts. At the top is the neat but small reception of New Palace Hotel. The room is shady as we expected. With two beds, there's just enough space to walk. A small television sits in one corner. The painting of a flower hangs from the dull green wall alongside a colorful clock. The tiny bathroom is neat enough. From downstairs come the unmistakable honking of vehicles from the street choked with traffic. Outside the balcony, the massive Juma Masjid rises up.

Yeh dilli hai mere yaar...Welcome to Delhi-6

There's a quaint romanticism to Old Delhi. Once you enter this place, you are no longer in the swanky capital city, with its huge buildings and skyscrapers. Life moves slowly here - thanks to the narrow congested roads. People still are in a hurry, as evident from the incessant honking of vehicles to keep the ones in front moving. Cars, rickshaws, cycles, bikes, men and goats - everyone's taken to the roads here. Shops joust for place along the roadside. Glancing up, you can see electric wires crisscrossing - reminding one of that famous mail about Kirchhoff's Law not being applicable to Indian cities.

Tucked into one of the alleys that spawn off these streets, is the famous Karim's Hotel - so famous that it is housed in four different rooms, all across the alley - and still, you have to wait for space. The effect of having a mention in Lonely Planet was evident, as there were an equal number of foreigners and locals. Our experience of a biryani was not really good - both because of the large quantity and because of a just-about-pleasant quality of the dish. The seekh kebabs were, however, quite tender and spicy.

Gate Number 1 of the Juma Masjid stands right opposite to this street. There is one of those wooden contraptions that pass by the name of a metal detector. As expected, it never beeped. As we headed in with our shoes in hand, a gentleman stopped us, pointing to my camera and a notice stuck up there - each camera ticket cost 200 bucks. That was a first in India for me - not the presence of a ticket, but the fact that it costs up to 200 bucks.

The interior was majestic! On the left rose up the magnificent facade of the huge mosque. A vast courtyard stretched in front with three gates at its three sides. A small pond adorned the middle of the square. Children were running around, sometimes creating ripples in the water with their hands, young girls in anarkali-esque costumes were coyly posing for photos, and foreigners in their polka-dot attire were going gaga everywhere. One of them even posed before the Masjid, folding her hands in a namaste sign. With me being busy tinkering my camera, (as always) SS was everyone's favourite choice for having their photos clicked with their own cameras. From the steps leading down from Gate 2, looking eastwards, it is difficult to miss the massive walls of the Red Fort.

"We'll have dinner at the Red Fort", i pointed out to SS.

"Yeah, sure", he said.

"You'll get Lal Quila Basmati Rice there...", I beamed.

For a moment he was silent. "Saala! Pakadke maaroonga tereko!" SS retorted back.

It was almost 5 when we reached the Red Fort. The sound and light show was scheduled only for 8:30. After much deliberation, we decided to skip it. There was a massive security check to get in to the Red Fort. For the first time, that wooden metal detector thingie worked - as i discovered when the guy behind me, a little overanxious to get in, pushed me into it (an act for which he got more than a mouthful from the security guard). However, the guard at the baggage checking point was lax. He never even bothered to have a look at the tripod inside my bag.

At the Diwan-I-Am, we were invaded by a horde of Tamilian tourists, who wanted to be everywhere at the same time. Photography was turning out to be difficult, added to the fact that i was prohibited from using the tripod. After a few shots in the dark, we moved on towards the backside, where is situated the majestic Rang Mahal, the Diwan-i-Khas and other splendid structures. The hordes were moving quite slowly, making photography even more difficult, but at the same time, giving enlightening information from guides and all-knowing parents. One mother pointed to the Khas Mahal, informing her son about how some badshah had built the place. She was not sure which badshah, but it was the guy who was featured in "Jodhaa-Akbar".

A group of foreigners were staring at the magnificent marble arches of the Diwan-I-Khas.

"Look at the marble slab in the middle," said the guide, "that is where the beautiful peacock throne used to be".

"Oh! where is it now?" asked one of the ladies.

"That is not here anymore. It was plundered by Nadir Shah!" replied the guide, "You should read the paper."

I'll check the paper tomorrow for any news on Nadir Shah plundering Delhi.

The Tandoori Kebabs that we had in Karim's at night were good. Shetty confessed that he had eaten better ones. I have a lack of experience in this matter.

Pic of the day: Afternoon break